The Belgian west coast has one asset the east coast does not: space. West of De Panne lies the country's largest dune area — De Westhoek — a 340-hectare nature reserve where walking feels the way it should. No asphalt paths, no overload of signage. But dunes, wind, and on quiet days, no one.
Three walks
De Westhoek (4 km, 1h15). The classic. Start at the seafront of De Panne, take the path towards France and plunge into the dunes. Height differences up to thirty metres, valleys with small pine groves, and — if you are lucky — herds of Konik horses grazing the area. End on the beach of Bray-Dunes, and walk back along the waterline.
Houtsaeger Dunes (6 km, 1h45). Between De Panne and Koksijde, a less-known dune area that feels like a green oasis. Well marked, suitable for families. Halfway through lies a chapel that everyone forgets, except on Sundays.
Oostduinkerke beach at low tide (5 km). An ideal loop ending from Villa Picasso: through the Witte Burg dunes to the beach, south towards De Panne, and finally back inland. At low tide you see the horse-fishermen — the last in Europe — riding their draft horses into the sea for shrimp.
Markets by day
- Tuesday — Koksijde-Bad. Large market with fish stalls straight from the Nieuwpoort auction.
- Wednesday — De Panne, Esplanade. Ten minutes from Flat Monet — for fresh fish, cheese, and small producers.
- Thursday — Veurne. The town market on the Grote Markt, with antiques and regional delicacies.
- Friday — Nieuwpoort fish auction. Strictly not a market but the auction itself — open from 7 a.m. for those who want to witness the ritual.
- Sunday — Adinkerke. Antique market, in season, with the occasional gem.
The tides
What many visitors forget: the Belgian coast has a big tidal range — up to four metres. The beach at high tide is a narrow band between seafront and sea; at low tide a plain of hundreds of metres where horses, joggers, kitesurfers and children all neatly avoid each other.
The best moment to be by the sea? Our current favourite: an hour before sunset, with the tide receding. The wet sand reflects the sky, the light turns powdery, and the whole scene becomes painterly — literally; several Impressionists came here for precisely that light.
What we often forget to recommend
- The horse-back shrimp fishermen — UNESCO intangible heritage, practising on Tuesday and Thursday mornings in Oostduinkerke. Free, quietly.
- The National Fisheries Museum in Oostduinkerke — small, charming, and good for a rainy afternoon.
- Plopsaland in De Panne — for those with children or who like to keep them busy. The Belgian Disneyland; honestly fun.
- The coastal tram — not an attraction but an experience. From De Panne to Knokke (68 km) in a few hours, through every seaside town.
- The Zwin nature reserve — an hour's drive to the east coast, but for bird lovers a must in spring and autumn.
What makes this region special is that it can still be breathtaking in the most banal of places. A walk between social housing blocks can suddenly bring you to a lookout dune from which the sea extends all the way to France.
For those who want to know more, we have maps ready in both properties. We also know which paths are closed during breeding season, which car park to avoid on a summer day, and where you can walk dry in the rain. Just ask us.
